Sparkling Personality http://www.victorpugatschew.com/ en-us Nucleus CMS v3.51 © Weblog http://backend.userland.com/rss http://www.victorpugatschew.com//nucleus/nucleus2.gif Sparkling Personality http://www.victorpugatschew.com/ New Blogs xml-rss2.php?itemid=79
Photography at www.photoessence.com.au

Champagne Blog at www.champagne-de-vigneron.com/blog

Champagne Info at www.champagne-de-vigneron.com

Food related Blog at www.brunchalot.com

]]> Tastings xml-rss2.php?itemid=79 Fri, 1 Jun 2012 23:07:46 +1100 Champagne Darling? Wine Bar opens in Glenferrie Road Malvern Vic. xml-rss2.php?itemid=75
Champagne Darling Bar area]]> Restaurants xml-rss2.php?itemid=75 Sun, 13 Dec 2009 11:43:00 +1100 Knights of Burgundy, 44th dinner. November 19th 2009 xml-rss2.php?itemid=74
Meeting No: 44

Date: November 19th, 2009.

Theme: Vosne Romanee, Premier Cru; Chassagne Montrachet, Premier Cru.

Present: Sir Philip of Travelle, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Steven of Grammar, Sir Russell of Epicure, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Thomas of Stocks, Sir Murray of Rouge et Blanc; Sir Phillip of Oporto, Sir Ian of Umpirico, Sir Paul of Rousseau, Sir Philip of Politico.

Food:

First Course – Tasmanian salmon tartare with cucumber and cracked wheat, coddled egg yolk, horseradish cream.
Second Course – Warm, air-dried wagyu beef bresaola rolls with enoki mushrooms, garlic shoots and daikon.
Third Course – Pan-fried veal involtini rolled with sage and prosciutto, soft polenta with Colechino sausage, sautιed cavolo nero, BBQ veal sauce.
Fourth Course – Coconut-crusted, poached pineapple, mango sauce, Malibu gelato.

Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)

IC. NV Smith Woodhouse Fine White Port (PM): Deep tawny, yellow on edge. Nose subdued, perhaps showing a little oxidation. Palate medium-sweet, rich and long, searing, trace bitter. Unusual, and a perfect IC wine. Not ranked;

1999 Pol Roger Extra Cuvee Reserve Champagne (RG): Pale yellow. Fine, yeasty nose, some development. Palate very dry, chalky, good aftertaste, low dosage. Fine, austere Champagne. Not ranked;

1. 2006 Chassagne Montrachet Morgeots (Blain Gagnard) (MM): Bright, light gold. Very fine nose, a little development. Palate young, softish, rather dry, good acidity. Ranked 6th (63). High – 4th (SD, PM, PA); Low – 9th (TJ);
2. 2006 Chassagne Montrachet Morgeots (Blain Gagnard) (PhS): Bright gold, a little more colour. Nose similar but less overt. Good palate, more weight and structure. Identical to1. but showing different characteristics. Not easy, this wine tasting business. Ranked 7th (75). High – 1st (SD); Low – 10th (RC, TJ, PS);
3. 2006 Chassagne Montrachet Clos St. Jean ( Blain Gagnard) (PhS): Bright gold, bit more colour. Perhaps a faint trace of maderisation on nose, breathes off. Palate young, softer but with good weight, long aftertaste. Ranked 12th (131). High – 10th (MM); Low – 13th (IR, RC, SD);

4. 1997 Vosne Romanee Les Petits Monts (Mongeard Mugneret) (PM): Some colour. Nose showing beetroot, trace metallic, trace oxidation, breathes off. Palate rich and quite tannic, still needs time. Ranked 5th (51). High – 2nd (SD, PM, PS); Low – 12th (RC);
5. 1998 Vosne Romanee Les Hautes Mazieres (Arnoux) (TJ): Not a Premier Cru but a very good Villages. Young, less colour. Nose fine Pinot, vinous. Palate rich and long, good weight, tannic and needs time. Ranked eq 8th (93). High – 5th (TJ); Low – 11th (SD, PS);
6. 2004 Vosne Romanee Les Suchots (Cacheux) (SC): Young, little colour. Nose fine and young, no herbaceousness I could see. Palate rich and lush, good weight, tannic and closed. Will make a very good bottle. Ranked 10th (95). High – 4th (PS); Low – 12th (PA);
7. 2002 Vosne Romanee Les Rouges (Desauney Bissey) (SD): Young colour. Nose fine and perfumed. Palate with good weight, quite tannic and needs time. Ranked eq 8th (93). High – 4th (RC); Low – 12th (MM);
8. 1996 Vosne Romanee Les Petits Monts (Mongeard Mugneret) (PA): Some colour. Nose a bit faulty, reduced, comes up gradually with breathing. Palate with good weight and aftertaste. Still needs time. Ranked 13th (134). High – 6th (RC); Low – 13th (MM, PhS, TJ, PM, PS, RG, PA, SC);
9. 2002 Vosne Romanee Les Beaunonts (Dujac) (IR): Some colour. Nose fine and reserved, understated, perfumed. Palate rich but very tannic, needs time. Ranked 1st (26). High – 1st (IR, RC, MM, TJ, PM, PS); Low – 7th (PA);
10. 1999 Vosne Romanee La Croix Rameau (Cacheux) (RC): Some colour. Nose showing some volatility. Palate good but very tannic. Ranked 11th (102). High – 2nd (IR); Low – 12th (TJ);
11. 2001 Vosne Romanee La Croix Rameau (Lamarche) (PS): Some colour. Nose fine, understated, perfumed. Palate big and rich, tannic with long aftertaste. Very good wine. Ranked 2nd (29). High – 1st (PhS, TJ, RG); Low – 6th (SD);
12. 2004 Vosne Romanee La Croix Rameau (Lamarche) (PS): Some colour. Nose very fine. Palate soft and elegant, tannic but more open than the ’01. Very good wine. Ranked 3rd (48). High – 1st (PA, SC); Low – 8th (IR, SD);
13. 2002 Vosne Romanee Les Rouges (Desauney Bissey) (RC): Trace colour. Fine, restrained nose, elegant, perfumed, very Vosne. Palate fine and lush, some tannin, lovely. More open than 7. Ranked 4th (49). High – eq 2nd (SC); Low – 7th (PM);

1976 Ch Sigalas Rabaud (SD): Deep gold, some orange. Nose rich, marmalade-like, to me not highly botrytised but others disagreed. Palate rich, full fruit acidity, tasty, long aftertaste, trace of bitterness. Fully ready. Not ranked.

1963 Kopke Colheita Port (SC): Deep tawny, yellow edge. Nose high-toned, fine. Palate rich, very long and searing. Sir Phillip of Oporto was much impressed. “Wine of the night”, he opined. Not ranked.
]]> Knights of Burgundy xml-rss2.php?itemid=74 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 11:32:00 +1100 Knights of Burgundy, 42nd dinner. September 17th 2009 xml-rss2.php?itemid=73 Meeting No: 42

Date: September 17th, 2009.

Theme: Aloxe Corton, Ladoix and Pernand Vergellesses, Premier or Grand Cru, Red and White.

Present: Sir Ian of Palatte, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Leon of Romanee, Sir Steven of Grammar, Sir Russell of Epicure, Sir Peter of Heathcote, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Thomas of Stocks, Sir Colin of Chambers, Sir Paul of Rousseau.

Food:

First Course – Brendon McQueen’s sweet corn soup with Asian mushrooms, winter melon and snow-pea shoots.
Second Course – ‘Karage’, crisp fried lemon and garlic marinated Jurassic quail, yellow beans in shitake mushroom sauce.
Third Course – Barbecued wagyu beef, pan-fried rice noodles with celeriac and leek fondue, asparagus spears in oyster sauce.
Fourth Course – Vanilla crθme caramel, honey-roasted quince, almond shortbread biscuit.

Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)

NV Gosset Grande Reserve Brut Champagne (CL): Medium-yellow. Fine, rich yeasty nose, some said spicy, touch of marmalade. Palate a good mouthful, good acidity, perhaps a little short. Not ranked;
IC. 2000 Lirac Chateau saint Roch (SC): Bright, light yellow. Nose subdued but a little flowery, perfumed. Palate very rich with lots of extract, long, good aftertaste. Splendid white from the Southern Rhone. Not ranked;

1. 2001 Corton Charlemagne (Rapet) (CL): Medium yellow. Nose rich, spicy, attractive. Palate quite fine with good length but not great structure, soft. Ranked 6th (63). High 3rd (IB); Low – 9th (RC);
2. 1996 Corton Charlemagne (Chapuis) (RC): Deep yellow. Nose showing maderisation. Palate soft, aged acidity creeping in. Pity. Ranked 11th by all except LC who ranked it 9th (108);
3. 2000 Pernand Vergellesses En Caradeaux (Rapet) (RC): Pale gold. Nose restrained, touch minerally. Palate splendid, rich structure, long, long aftertaste. Very good wine. Ranked 5th (47). High – 1st (SC); Low – 10th (RC);

4. 1996 Corton Renardes (Prince de Merode) (SC): Quite coloured, touch brown. Nose not bad, rustic Pinot, bit metallic. Palate rather flat, tannic, some bitterness, acidic, some saw VA. Unattractive but possibly breathed up a little. Ranked 8th (70). High – 3rd (CL, LC); Low – 10th (PD);
5. 1995 Pernand Vergellesses Ile de Vergellesses (Chandon de Brialles) (RG): Some colour. Nose better, spicy, finer. Palate better, tannic, should improve with time. Ranked 9th (71). High – 2nd (RC); Low – 10th (SD);
6. 1994 Corton Clos du Roi (Dubreuil Fontaine) (PD): Quite coloured. Very good nose, some spice. Palate with good richness, albeit a little plain, some tannin. Ranked 3rd (41). High – 1st (SD, CL); Low – 8th (LC);.
7. 1998 Corton Renardes (Guyon) (LC): A little colour. Nose a touch metallic, not bad (stage of development). Palate with good weight, fairly plain now, very tannic. This was quite supple up to about a year or so ago, but now needs time. Ranked 2nd (39). High – 1st (RC); Low – 10th (LC);
8. 1996 Corton Rognet (Chevalier) (IB): Fairly coloured. Nose good but rustic and restrained, rich. Palate rich and tannic, needs time. Some saw Brettanomyces in this wine and, sometime later, the nose showed reduction. Very curious. Ranked 10th (74). High – 1st (CL); Low – 11th (LC);
9. 1996 Corton Les Marechaudes (Prince de Merode) (PS): A little colour. Nose a bit fresh but closed. Palate fairly lush, attractive, most open of the reds but needs time. Ranked 1st (27). High – 1st (TJ, IB, RG, PD); Low – 8th (CL);
10. 1998 Corton Les Bressandes (Chandon de Brialles) (TJ): Some colour. Nose not bad but a little blunt. Palate with good weight, some suppleness but very tannic, needs time. Ranked 4th (45). High – 1st (PS); Low – 9th (CL);
11. 1983 Corton “Languettes” (Chapuis) (PD) Coloured, lightened up. Nose was a bit corked, although some did not see it, perfumed underneath. Palate showed the suppleness of age, some thought botrytis, quite good but a bit bitter on the finish, tannic. And what the double quotation marks were doing is a mystery to me. Ranked 7th (64). High – 1st (LC); Low – 10th (IB, RG, CL, SC);

1983 Ch Suduiraut (SD): Very coloured, some orange. Nose very matured, rich, botrytis. Palate rich with good acidity and aftertaste but with some bitterness, perhaps a little too old. According to Sir Russell, “like marmalade left open for a month”. Not ranked.

2003 Taylor Vintage Port (PS): Very deep, purple on edge. Nose very rich and young, fine, high-toned. Palate rich with beautiful balance, very young. Will be splendid in 40 years. Not ranked.
]]> Knights of Burgundy xml-rss2.php?itemid=73 Thu, 17 Sep 2009 11:28:00 +1000 Knights of Burgundy, 41st dinner. August 20th 2009 xml-rss2.php?itemid=72 Meeting No: 41

Date: August 20th, 2009.

Theme: Vosne Romanee, Grand Cru; Chablis, Grand Cru.

Present: Sir Phillip of Travelle; Sir David of Cirro, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Leon of Romanee, Sir Russell of Epicure, Sir Peter of Heathcote, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Colin of Chambers, Sir Phillip of Oporto; Sir Peter of Malay; Sir Paul of Rousseau, Sir Philip of Politico.

Food:

First Course – Steamed spanner crab raviolo, stir-fried gingered wombok, crab bisque cream sauce.
Second Course – Chinese roasted Western Plains suckling pig, shitake mushrooms and snake beans with oyster sauce.
Third Course – Seared Japanese citrus peppered venison loin, pan-fried rice noodle filled with eggplant and smoky baba ghanoush, soya bean salad.
Fourth Course – Granny Smith apple ‘cinnamon doughnut’, rhubarb sorbet.

Marvelous food again, the first three courses I thought sensational. Many applauded the match of the crab ravioli with the Chablis, and some said the venison was the best they had ever eaten. Bravo Brendon!

Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)

NV Leclerc Briant Les Clos de Champions Premier Cru Brut Champagne (CL): Some colour. Nose rich, trace meaty, sweetish. Palate very rich, good mouthful, quite dry belying the nose, good aftertaste. A wine for food a couple of us thought, but others saw it as an aperitif. Not ranked;

1. 1998 Chablis Valmur (Brocard) (CL): Some colour. Nose fine, showing some typical White Burgundy development. Palate rich and structured with good acidity and aftertaste. Good wine, drinking well. Ranked 9th (86). High – 2nd (LC); Low – 13th (RC);
2. 2002 Chablis Grenouille (Droin) (RC): Bright, a little colour. Nose austere, chalky, minerally. Palate rich with fine acidity and long aftertaste. Typically Chablis, and perhaps more Premier Cru than Grand Cru in style. Ranked 13th (149). High – 10th (RC); Low – 13th (PD, CL, PSe, RG, DB, PA, PM, PS)
3. 2002 Chablis Vaudesir (Droin) (RC): Lighter coloured. Nose fine with developed Burgundy overtones. Palate very rich with effusive acidity, weighty, long aftertaste. Top wine. Ranked 8th (84). High – 3rd (PM); Low – 11th (PS);

IC Wine. 1986 Batard Montrachet (Henri Clerc) (PSe): Very coloured. Nose sound but quite plain, lacking verve. Palate better, with good weight, acidity and aftertaste, but an unprepossessing wine. Not ranked;

4. 1995 Romanee St. Vivant (Confuron) (DB): Some colour. Nose fine, perfumed, restrained. Palate very attractive with good fruit-acidity and aftertaste. Very good wine which could profitably take more time. Ranked 10th (102). High – 4th (CL, LC); Low – 13th (PhS);
5. 2006 Grand Echezeaux (Sirugue) (PM): Bright, young colour, some purple. Nose fresh and young, attractive but unformed as yet. Palate big and rich, good fruit-acidity, tannic, still open. Will be splendid in about 15 years or so. Ranked 11th (121). High – 8th (RC, PM); Low – 12th (PD, SC);
6. 1994 Romanee St. Vivant (Dom. Thomas Moillard) (RG): Some colour. Good nose but not great. Palate better, rich, fine fruit-acidity, still quite tannic. Good wine but will get better. Ranked 12th (124). High – 7th (PS); Low – 13th LC, SC);
7. 1998 Echezeaux (Cacheux) (PD): Some colour. Nose fine and aromatic. Palate very rich, substantial, vinous, long, tannic, long aftertaste. Great wine which will get better. Ranked 5th (59). High – 1st (SC); Low – 11th (PM);
8. 2003 Echezeaux (Engel) (PhS): Trace colour. Nose fine, maybe showing development, some perfume. Palate soft and succulent, finely tannic. Lovely wine, elegant. Atypical for an ’03. Ranked 6th (78). High – 3rd (RG); Low – 10th (RC);
9. 1990 Echezeaux (JeanGrivot) (PA): Some colour. Nose very fine, very Vosne. Palate lovely, soft with good acidity, tannic on finish. Splendid wine. Ranked 1st (40). High – 1st (CL, LC, PSe, DB, PA, PS); Low – 10th (PD);
10. 1997 Echezeaux (Desauney Bissey) (SC): Some colour, lightish. Nose fine and pure. Palate medium-weight but with fine fruit-acidity, delicious. Very Vosne. Ranked 4th (56). High – 2nd (RC, PSe, DB, PM); Low – 9th (PA);
11. 1995 Echezeaux (Dominic Laurent) (SC): Quite coloured. Nose fine, developed, rich. Palate very rich and flavoursome, finely tannic. Drinking well but could take more time. Ranked 3rd (49). High – 1st (PD, RC, PS); Low – 12th (PSe);
12. 1998 Echezeaux (Girardin) (PSe): Trace colour. Nose fine, restrained. Palate delicious, fine but still quite tannic. Needs time. Ranked 7th (81). High – 3rd (PSe); Low – 11th (DB);
13. 2002 Richebourg (A.F. Gros) (PS): Trace colour, bright. Nose rich, profound, restrained. Palate very rich and long, finely tannic. Great wine which will need ages to be mature. Ranked 2nd (45). High – 1st (RG, PM, PhS); Low – 12th (PA);

1971 Kallstadler Steinocker Sierger Beerenauslese (Muller) (LC): Brown, yellow-green on edge. Nose biscuity, slightly sour, breathes up sweet. Palate rather plain, only slightly sweet, odd. Too old but probably was never a wine of distinction. Not ranked.
1976 Oppenheimer Kreuz Riesling Beerenauslese (?) (LC): Light brown, yellow on edge. Nose sound, sweet but lacks finesse. Palate sound but rather plain, lacks distinction. Not ranked.
Both these years were top years in Germany, but the vineyard is very important in determining quality, or at least it used to be. Wines from the great vineyards of Moselle and Rheingau should still be good.

NV Fine Boal Madeira (Henriques and Henriques) (LC): Brown, green on edge. Nose rich, molasses-like. Palate medium-sweet, abundant acidity, long aftertaste, good wine. Not ranked.

And last but not least, your assessment of your wine compared with the assessment of your wine by the rest. A plus sign means you think it’s better than others do; a minus sign means you think it’s not as good as others do. The numeral represents the number of ranks of difference. Thus:

PSe: +5
CL: +3
DB: +3
PM: +3
PD: +2
RC: +1.5
RG: 0
PA: 0
PS: -1
SC: -2
PhS: -2

That is all.
]]> Knights of Burgundy xml-rss2.php?itemid=72 Thu, 20 Aug 2009 11:25:00 +1000 Knights of Burgundy, 40th dinner. July 16th 2009 xml-rss2.php?itemid=71 Meeting No: 40

Date: July 16th, 2009.

Theme: Nuits St. Georges, Premier Cru; Meursault, Premier Cru.

Present: Sir Ian of Palatte, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Leon of Romanee, Sir Russell of Epicure, Sir Stephen of Grammar, Sir Peter of Heathcote, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Thomas of Stocks, Sir Colin of Chambers, Sir Paul of Rousseau, Sir Philip of Politico.

Food:

First Course – Veloute of Langoustine & Le Puy lentils, pan-fried scampi tails.
Second Course – Toasted brioche mushroom ‘Charlotte’, wilted water spinach, truffle poached quail egg, shitake mushroom sauce.
Third Course – Slow-braised, herb-crusted lamb neck, celeriac puree, caramelised onions and carrots, lamb sauce with parsley pesto.
Fourth Course – Warm crepe roulade with ricotta & pistachio nougat, toasted hazelnut ice cream.

Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)

NV Fourny Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne (PhS): Light yellow, green tinge. Fine, fresh nose. Palate a good mouthful, rich and dry. Very good aperitif. Not ranked;
1994 Yarra Yering Sparkling Blanc de Noir (RG): IC wine. Deepish yellow. Broad, fruity nose. Palate rich and broad, fairly short. Interesting curio but lacks finesse and elegance. Not ranked;
1. 2001 Meursault Santenots (d’Angerville) (CL): Deep yellow. Corked on nose but palate rich and long. Ranked 13th (141). High 12th (CL, SC); Low – 13th (everyone else);
2. 2001 Meursault Poruzots (Jobard) (CL): Medium-yellow. Very fine, developed nose. Palate quite rich, lots of acidity, could use a little more time. Ranked 5th (57). High – 1st (LC, RG); Low – 9th (PS);
3. 2001 Meursault Poruzots (Jobard) (SC): Medium-deep yellow. Fine developing nose. Palate full, rich and long, good acidity and aftertaste, youthful. Ranked 10th (86). High – eq 1st (SC); Low – 11th (SD); I scored this wine one quarter of a point better than wine 2 but that wine was 5th in my rankings.
4. 2005 Nuits St. Georges Aux Argillots (Martin Dufour) (IB): Fresh, young colour. Fresh nose, some finesse. Palate rich and young, very tannic, still open but lacks elegance. Ranked 11th (105). High – 6th (PS); Low – 11th (RC, PhS, PD);
5. 1980 Nuits St, Georges Les Vignes Rondes (Rion) (SC): Quite coloured. Nose good but understated. Palate soft and supple at front, fairly tannic on finish. Not bad. Ranked 7th (62). High – 3rd (CL, LC); Low – 10th (SC);
6. 2003 Nuits St. Georges Les Roncieres (Chevillon) (PhS): Red-purple. Fine, fresh nose. Palate rich and tarry, perhaps a little coarse, needs time. Ranked 6th (60). High – 1st (PS); Low – 9th (IB, SD, SC);
7. 1993 Nuits St. Georges Les Roncieres (Chevillon) (LC): Corked, but fine fruit on palate. High – 12th (all except SC who ranked it 13th);
8. 2004 Nuits St. Georges Les Bousselots (Chevillon) (PD): Trace colour. Nose fine and perfumed, although some saw a little herbaceousness. Palate medium weight, fairly open, attractive, tannic. Nice wine. Ranked 2nd (48). High – 2nd (TJ, RC, PD, SD); Low – 10th (LC);
9. 1998 Nuits St. Georges Aux Boudots (Conferon) (TJ): Trace colour. Nose subdued. Palate big and rich, long. Top wine but closed now. Will be splendid. Ranked 1st (42). High – 1st (TJ, IB, SD); Low – 8th (PD);
10. 2003 Nuits St. Georges Les Chaignots (Chevillon) (PS): Very deep. Nose fine, restrained, understated. Big-scaled palate, trace cinnamon. Some saw a faintly corked character. Ranked 9th (81). High – eq 1st (SC); Low – 11th (RG);
11. 2004 Nuits St. Georges Les Chaignots (Chevillon) (PS): Some colour, medium-deep. Nose fine and understated, attractive. Palate fine as well, less weight than previous, fairly closed now, needs time. Ranked 3rd (50). High – 1st (RC, PD, RC); Low – 11th (IB);
12. 2000 Nuits St. Georges Aux Boudots (Tardy) (RC): Some colour. Nose restrained, trace cinnamon. Palate supple at front, tannic on finish, needs time. Ranked 8th (68). High – 2nd (PhS); Low – 11th (SC);
13. 1995 Nuits St. Georges Les Porots (Dominique Laurent) (RG): Some colour. Nose fine, cinnamon again. Palate soft, supple, fine, tannic on finish. Very good wine, needs time. Ranked 4th (54). High – 1st (CL, SC); Low – 11th (PS);
1980 Ch Climens (SD): Orange. Nose a bit dumb, marmalade. Palate very rich, lovely fruit-acid balance, good aftertaste. Excellent wine, drinking at its peak. Not ranked;
1982 Croft Vintage Port (SD): Pale tawny, hint of red. Nose fine but slight. Palate fine and long, good aftertaste. Light wine but drinking well.

]]> Knights of Burgundy xml-rss2.php?itemid=71 Thu, 16 Jul 2009 11:23:00 +1000 Knights of Burgundy, 39th dinner. June 18th 2009 xml-rss2.php?itemid=70 Meeting No: 39

Date: June 18th, 2009.

Theme: Open: Premier or Grand Cru, red and white.

Present: Sir David of Cirro, Sir Ian of Palatte, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Leon of Romanee, Sir Peter of Heathcote, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Thomas of Stocks, Sir Phillip of Oporto, Sir Ian of Umpirico, Sir Paul of Rousseau, Sir Philip of Politico.

Food:

First Course – Tempura garfish rolled in nori, gingered wombak cabbage, horseradish cream sauce.
Second Course – Baked Asian pie of minced chicken, pork belly and eggplant.
Third Course – Seared lamb loin with citrus pepper, crisp lamb sweetbread, grilled lambs tongue, braised cos lettuce, pan-fried noodles, shitake sauce.
Fourth Course – Warm, dark chocolate fondant pudding with red bean ice cream.

Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)

1975 Bollinger RD Champagne (PS): Very coloured, orange. Nose showing maderisation. Palate still with some fizz, a bit short, a little sweet and sourish. An elegant geriatric. Some, notably Sir Leon, appreciate such aged Champagne; the rest of us would rather drink beer. Not ranked;
NV Billecart Salmon Rose Champagne (RG): Onion skin colour. Nose quite fresh, rich. Palate rich, meaty, attractive. Good mouthful, dry, a little sour on the finish. Not ranked;
1. 1998 Corton Charlemagne (Rapet) (SC): Bright gold. Nose full, a little straw-like, maybe even yeasty but not unattractive. Palate soft and round, nice acidity. Pleasant but without much finesse, lacks backbone, inoffensive. Ranked 7th (66). High – 2nd (PM); Low – 10th (LC);
2. 2000 Criots Batard Montrachet (Blain Gagnard) (IR): Medium gold. Initially, nose smelled like drains, slightly maderised, breathed up better. Palate quite good with fine acidity, breathed up to show good structure and length. Notwithstanding its faults, this wine was highly regarded; I thought the palate remained a little flat, the nose a little dirty. Ranked 2nd (35). High – 1st (PM, TJ, RG, PhS, IR); Low – 9th (SC);
3. 1995 Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot (Germain) (RG): Deep gold. Rich, penetrating, developed nose with lots of sulphur overtones, attractive. Palate with good weight and acidity, dryish. Drinking pretty well but some might find the ‘developed sulphur’ a bit overpowering. Ranked 4th (43). High 1st (LC, IB); Low – 8th (DB);
4. 1997 Charmes Chambertin (Rousseau) (PhS): Very coloured, cloudy, needed decanting. Nose fine, mellow and developed. Palate medium-weight, soft and round, finely balanced, drinking well. Prematurely developed, even for a ’97. Ranked 1st (30). High – 1st (PS, DB, SC); Low – 8th (RG);
5. 2007 Clos de la Roche (Boisset) (PS): Young colour, purple. Nose young and fresh, strawberries. Palate soft and young, medium-weight, open, tannic. Pleasant but not profound. Ranked 6th (65). High – 2nd (PS); Low – 10th (PD);
6. 1996 Morey St. Denis La Riottes (Perrot Minot) (PM): Some colour. Good, restrained nose. Palate rich and long with good acidity and aftertaste. Perrot Minot is comparatively unsung but makes very good wines. Ranked 8th (79). High – 4th (TJ); Low – 10th (PS, PhS);
7. 1991 Chambolle Musigny Les Cras (Ghislaine) (LC): A little colour. Good nose, a bit medicinal. Palate very rich and long, tannic, long aftertaste. I very much liked this wine but it was positively pilloried by everyone else. There was considerable discussion and confusion as to whether it was corked or suffered from mercaptans. I could detect neither and marked the wine accordingly. Vicissitudes of the wine taster… Ranked 12th (124). High – 5th (SC); Low – 12th (everyone else except IR who ranked it 11th);
8. 2004 Bonnes Mares (Castagnier) (SC): Young colour. Very fresh nose, some thought herbaceous or sawdust-like. Palate very rich and substantial, some stalkiness. Many picked this as an ’04 prior to unmasking, and therefore saw characteristics that were sensorially invisible to me. However, the stalkiness is suggestive of an unripe character so I can’t dispute the ‘herbaceous’ conclusions. Ranked 11th (108); High – 6th (LC); Low – 11th (PM, PD, RG, PhS, PS);
9. 1996 Griottes Chambertin (Fourrier) (DB): Some colour. Fine, rich nose, although there was a trace of cork. Palate very rich with fine fruit-acidity. Fine wine marred by a defective cork. Ranked 10th (101). High – 6th (PD); Low – 11th (LC, TJ, DB);
10. 2004 Gevrey Chambertin Les Cherbaudes (Fourrier) (IB):Very fine nose. Palate medium-weight, lush, open, sweet and attractive. No trace of herbaceousness on this ’04, at least nobody spotted it. Ranked 3rd (39). High – 1st (PD); Low – 7th (LC);
11. 1993 Corton Les Bressandes (Chandon de Brialles) (PD): Some colour, orange. Lovely aromatic nose, very attractive. Palate with good weight and acidity, elegant. A wine of finesse. Ranked 9th (93). High – eq 2nd (SC); Low – 12th (IR);
12. 1993 Morey St. Denis Bussieres (Georges Roumier) (TJ): Nose rich, understated, profound. Palate with rich weight, succulent, tannic and backward. Top wine but needs time. Ranked 5th (57). High – 2nd (RG, SC); Low – 9th (PD);
1982 Banyuls (Domaine du Mas Blanc) (LC): (Idiosyncratic contribution) Quite coloured, yellow on edge. Nose fine, malty, Muscat-like, very attractive. Palate medium weight, long with long aftertaste, only a little sweetness. Well matched by Sir Leon, the master matcher, with the only slightly sweet chocolate dessert. Not ranked;
1983 Taylor Vintage Port (TJ): Nose fine, lightish. Palate very fine, medium-weight, nice length. Lovely drinking but could still take a bit of time. Not ranked.

]]> Knights of Burgundy xml-rss2.php?itemid=70 Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:18:00 +1000 Terres et Vins de Champagne - April 20 2009 xml-rss2.php?itemid=69
Aurelian Laherte

Aurelien Laherte.
Raphael Bereche

Raphael Bereche.
Pascal Agrapart

Pascal Agrapart.

Benoit Tarlant

Benoit Tarlant.

Francis Boulard

Francis Boulard.

David Leclapart

David Leclapart.

Alexandre Chartogne

Alexandre Chartogne.

Pascal Doquet

Pascal Doquet.

Benoit Lahaye

Benoit Lahaye.

Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy

Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy.

Olivier Paulet

Olivier Paulet.


Fabrice Pouillon

Fabrice Pouillon.

Vincent Couche

Vincent Couche.

Etienne Goutorbe

Etienne Goutorbe.

Franck Pascal

Franck Pascal.

Francoise Bedel

Francoise Bedel.

Cyril Jeaunaux

Cyril Jeaunaux.




]]> Vigneron reviews xml-rss2.php?itemid=69 Sat, 30 May 2009 10:25:10 +1000 Knights of Burgundy, 38th dinner. May 21st 2009. xml-rss2.php?itemid=78 Meeting No: 38

Date: May 21st, 2009.

Theme: Morey St. Denis, Grand Crus; Chablis, Grand Crus.

Present: Sir Philip of Travelle; Sir Ian of Palatte, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Leon of Romanee, Sir Russell of Epicure, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Thomas of Stocks, Sir Colin of Chambers, Sir Phillip of Oporto, Sir Paul of Rousseau.

Food:

First Course – Seared sea scallops, braised leek tortellone, ginger, crustacean sauce.
Second Course – Five-spiced, Chinese-style, roast duck breast. Peking cabbage and bamboo shoot ‘okonomiyaki’, BBQ sauce.
Third Course – Seared wagyu beef, horseradish mash, carmelised onions, black bean sauce.
Fourth Course – Gippsland Blue cheese, toasted fruit and nut loaf, fig marmalade and roasted walnuts.
Fifth Course – Honey-roasted quinces on almond shortbread biscuit, hazelnut ice cream.

Excellent food again, the wagyu beef sensational!

Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)

NV Yalumba Old Show Oloroso (museum release, 25 years old) (SC): Designated ‘idiosyncratic contribution’ (IC). Brown, yellow-green edge. Rich, spiritous, penetrating, sherry nose. Palate very rich, good weight, long, with very long aftertaste, lasting. Finishes dry. Excellent. Not ranked;
NV Fourny Extra Brut Champagne (RG): Pale yellow. Nose fine, fresh and delicate. Palate fresh and very dry, good acidity, medium length. An austere wine of great finesse, very attractive. Not ranked;
1. 1999 Chablis Les Clos (Louis Michel) (LC): Medium-light yellow. Rich nose but initially laden with sulphur, seemingly both SO2 and H2S. Eventually breathed up and showed well. Palate also improved and showed good weight and structure. Ranked 9th (80). High – 5th (PM); Low – 10th (PA, CL, IB);

2. 2001 Chablis Valmur (Raveneau) (CL): Light yellow. Nose very rich and ripe, quite unlike traditional Chablis. Big, rich palate with great structure, although seemingly little acidity. I thought rather disappointing for a Raveneau, or for a Chablis for that matter. Perhaps age will bring it together. Ranked 8th (67). High – 2nd (LC); Low – 10th (PS, TJ);
3. 2005 Chablis Les Clos (Louis Moreau) (RG): Light yellow. Nose quite minerally and austere, very Chablis. Palate long with good structure, acidity and aftertaste. Very good wine. Ranked 5th (45). High – 3rd (PM, RC); Low – 8th (RG);
4. 2004 Clos St. Denis (Pierre Amiot) (CL): A little colour. Nose fine, developing, slightly metallic (some saw herbaceousness). Palate not bad, medium weight, plain, but closed up and tannic, hard to judge. Ranked 10th (86). High – 4th (LC); Low – 10th (PM, RG, RC);
5. 2000 Clos de la Roche (Castagnier) (PA): Some colour. Nose perfumed, a little development, restrained. Palate quite lush, good weight, tarry, some tannin. Just closing, I think. Ranked 6th (60). High – 2nd (SC); Low – 9th (PM, RG);
6. 2003 Clos des Lambrays (Domaine des Lambrays) (IB): Some colour. Rich, fresh nose, touch metallic, bit closed. Palate with weight, good fruit-acidity, tannic, closing rapidly and, for now anyway, lacking finesse. Ranked 7th (71). High – 5th (PS, TJ, RG); Low – 10th (LC, SC);
7. 2005 Clos de la Roche (Peirre Amiot) (SC): Young colour. Nose very fine and fresh, perfumed, open. Palate lovely and fresh, good fruit-acidity and aftertaste, still fully open. Only medium weight but has great finesse and balance. Ranked 1st (16). High – 1st (LC, PM, PS, TJ, RG, IB, SC); Low – 5th (RC);
8. 1998 Clos des Lambrays (Domaine des Lambrays) (TJ): Trace colour. Some nose but restrained, rather closed. Palate rich and tannic, fine weight, vinous, good aftertaste. Tannic and closed. Top wine but badly needs time. Ranked 4th (37). High – 2nd (PS, RC); Low – 8th (LC);
9. 1996 Clos des Lambrays (Domaine des Lambrays) (RC): Fairly coloured. Fine nose, subdued, understated. Palate rich, supple at front, tannic on finish, good aftertaste. More approachable than the ’98. Ranked 2nd (30). High – 1st (PA, CL); Low – 6th (PM);
10. 2004 Clos des Tart (Momessin) (PS): Young colour. Marvelous, rich, young nose, beautifully perfumed. Palate quite rich with good fruit-acidity, dry, still fully open. No sign of herbaceousness. Ranked 3rd (31). High – 1st (RC); Low – 6th (PA);
2001 Ch Briatte Cuvee Special (RC): Quite coloured, orangy. Matured nose, marmalade-like, botrytis not readily apparent. Palate rich and lush but lacking acidity, shows a touch of bitterness. Very developed for a ’01 and a bit past its best. Not ranked.
1978 Dow Quinta do Bomfim Vintage Port (PM): Badly corked. Not ranked.
1986 Osicka Vintage Port (PM): Black. Nose rich and ripe, lacking finesse. Palate rich and ripe, young, smooth, but need at least ten years to show its best. Not ranked.

]]> Knights of Burgundy xml-rss2.php?itemid=78 Thu, 21 May 2009 00:33:00 +1000 Knights of Burgundy, 37th meeting. 16th April 2009. xml-rss2.php?itemid=77 Meeting No: 37

Date: April 16th, 2009.

Theme: Chambolle Musigny Red, Premier or Grand Cru; Corton White, Grand Cru.

Present: Sir David of Kardinia, Sir Ian of Palatte, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Leon of Romanee, Sir Steven of Grammar, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Thomas of Stocks, Sir Colin of Chambers, Sir Paul of Rousseau,

Food:

First Course – Pan-fried Petuna ocean trout semi-cured and wrapped in seaweed, rice-crusted tofu, kombu dashi sauce, spicy cod roe.
Second Course – Crisp-skin roasted Kurobuta pork belly, teriyaki grilled eggplant, shredded iceberg salad, hoisin sauce.
Third Course – Seared venison ‘involtini’ rolled with leeks, miso and Japanese mustard, celeriac shepherd’s pie with braised venison shoulder, pickled plum sauce.
Fourth Course – Butter puff pastry tartlet with glazed quinces, gorgonzola and mascarpone custard, honey sauce.

Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)

NV Marc Hebrart Premier Cru Brut Rose Champagne (CL): Pale, onion-skin colour (‘bronze blush’ according to Sir Ralph). Fine, aromatic nose, bready. Palate full, rich and succulent, good aftertaste, delicious. Not ranked;
NV Boulard Les Rachais Champagne (RG): Pale yellow. Nose with a medicinal overtone, possibly Brettanomyces. Palate a good mouthful but with an ‘off’ flavour. Not ranked;
1. 2005 Corton Charlemagne (Bonneau du Martray) (CL): Very pale yellow. Fresh, minerally nose, trace cinnamon. Palate very young, austere, fine acidity, good aftertaste. A baby. Ranked 4th (36). High – 2nd (CL); Low – 7th (TJ);
2. 2005 Corton Charlemagne (Rapet) (SC): Light yellow, more colour than above. Fresh nose but with more evident fruit. Palate rich and full, more approachable but possibly less finesse. Ranked 7th (57). High – 3rd (SC); Low – 9th (TJ, DA);
3. 2005 Chambolle Musigny Les Feusselottes (Drouhin) (RG): Young colour. Fine, flowery, young nose, open. Palate lush with good fruit-acidity, balance and aftertaste. Still open. Ranked 8th (59). High – 3rd (DA); Low – 9th (LC, PS, SD);
4. 2005 Chambolle Musigny Les Noirots (Sigaut) (IB): Young colour. Fine nose, more understated. Palate supple, more weight, tarry, good aftertaste, beautiful balance, still open. Top wine. Ranked 3rd (35). High – 1st (SC); Low – 7th (CL);
5. 2000 Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes (Amiot Servelle) (TJ): Some colour. Nose hesitant, showing a little development. Palate softish at front, tannic on finish. Closed up now and needs time. Ranked 5th (54). High – 3rd (TJ); Low – 8th (IB, SC);
6. 1994 Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes (Barthod) (LC): Quite coloured. Nose with some development. Palate soft with good fruit, showing some development, tannic on finish, perhaps a little coarse. Will be better with more time. Ranked 9th (62). High – 5th (SD); Low – 9th (SC);
7. 2006 Chambolle Musigny Les Noirots (Sigaut) (DA): Young colour. Fine nose, young, open. Palate full and rich, open, balanced. Not the weight of the ’05 but very good. Ranked 6th (55). High – 3rd (SC); Low – 9th (IB);
8. 1993 Chambolle Musigny Les Gruenchers (Annelle and Bernard Rion) (SD): Quite coloured. Nose developed, rather blunt at first, came up. Palate with good weight, some development but rather backward and needs time. Ranked 2nd (26). High – All ranked 2nd except DA and SC who ranked it 6th;
9. 1983 Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses (Compt de Vogue) (PS): Quite coloured. Fine nose, some development. Palate very rich, fine weight, substantial, tannic with long aftertaste. Very good wine but will be better with more time. Ranked 1st (10) by all except SC who ranked it 2nd;
1979 Ch Rayne Vigneau (SD): Bright gold. Unfortunately corked, rather dry and bitter on palate. Not ranked.
1975 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port (SC): Fairly coloured. Fine nose, lots of almond. Palate rich and long, comparatively youthful for its age and properly needs more time. Very good for the vintage. Not ranked.

]]> Knights of Burgundy xml-rss2.php?itemid=77 Thu, 16 Apr 2009 00:29:00 +1000