A unique opportunity to taste old vintages of Clos des Lambrays. Hosted by the Australian importer - Ross Duke, with a great menu at Matteo's restaurant.

Boulard Petraea


The mouth cleanser was a rich and intense Champagne of amazing quality - Raymond Boulard Petraea 1997-2003. This is a solera from vintages 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 and 2003. Subtle oak yet great finesse.




Next came two Puligny Montrachets from Clos des Lambrays. 2004 Caillerets and 2004 Folatieres. Both wines showed great acid and intensity - with the Caillerets just revealing a little more minerality and finesse. Both wines are classic old style Puligny Montrachet but alas they are only made in tiny quantities - a few barrels of each - so are impossible to procure in the general market place.



The red grand cru 'Clos des Lambrays' were served in pairs, (1918,1919), (1937,1946), (1966,1971).


1918 Clos des Lambrays.

Colour was medium red - very clear with no real signs of dilution at the edges. Nose offers forest, game and red fruits - hints of vanilla and spice - very pure indeed. This wine is all about elegance. Palate continues from the aromas with lovely balanced mouthfeel. Not a blockbuster - very persistant and this did not deteriorate in the glass as the evening progressed - this got better and better.1918 was rated as a good vintage. 18.5/20







1919 Clos des Lambrays.

1919 was rated as a 'great' vintage of the 'hot' variety. August was extremely hot. This was considerably darker and riper than the 1918, yet showed signs of over-ripeness with a little brett showing. Quite a big robust style which appeared a little atypical in the overall scheme of things. Good but not up to the 1918 in this bracket. 17/20







1937 Clos des Lambrays


1937 was rated as a great vintage and the best of that decade. Colour is a pristine cherry red. The nose just leaps out - vanillan oak, spices, red fruits - wow. The palalate is in perfect balance. Sensational. 18.5/20









1946 Clos des Lambrays


A much darker tighter and tannic style. Maybe lacking a little sweetness and richness and maybe drying out a little. Supposely a cool year with a burst of sun just before vintage. I saw hints of brett in a very masculine tough style. Showing very well for its age - in pristine condition. 17/20









1966 Clos des Lambrays
A truy stylish wine with great elegance and finesse. Red fruits, cherries with a hint of aloofness. Maybe even a little closed and can survive another 20 years. Great freshness with lingering acid. Sensational. Stupendous. 19/20









1971 Clos des Lambrays

Darker and richer in colour than the 66. Certainly more tannic than the 1966. Very much a leaner style, relying more on dry tannins and almost Bordeaux like structure - as opposed to the suppleness of the 1966. 17/20




Here are some photos of the great menu put together by Matteo's restaurant.




Carpacio of Hiramasa Kingfish.



Confit of Petuna ocean trout.




Tuna tataki tartare.






Seared scallop with asian style Kurobuta pork belly and green pea puree.
Brioche 'charlotte' filled with nushroom ragu, wilted water spinach, truffle poached quail egg, porcini mushroom 'fume' sauce.



'Duck selection'
Aiguillette of duck breast with pan-fried rice noodle rolls.
Confit duck neck sausage on roasted parsnip puree.
Peking duck pancake.
Duck consomme.


Warm crepe roulade.
Classical Italian vanilla bean panna cotta.
Framboise flavoured mascarpone tartlet.


A great night was had by all. It is interesting that in each of the bracket pairs, the older wine showed more red fruits and freshness - whereas the younger wine showed more dry tannic austerity.