Sparkling Personality

Meeting No: 44

Date: November 19th, 2009.

Theme: Vosne Romanee, Premier Cru; Chassagne Montrachet, Premier Cru.

Present: Sir Philip of Travelle, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Steven of Grammar, Sir Russell of Epicure, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Thomas of Stocks, Sir Murray of Rouge et Blanc; Sir Phillip of Oporto, Sir Ian of Umpirico, Sir Paul of Rousseau, Sir Philip of Politico.

Food:

First Course – Tasmanian salmon tartare with cucumber and cracked wheat, coddled egg yolk, horseradish cream.
Second Course – Warm, air-dried wagyu beef bresaola rolls with enoki mushrooms, garlic shoots and daikon.
Third Course – Pan-fried veal involtini rolled with sage and prosciutto, soft polenta with Colechino sausage, sautéed cavolo nero, BBQ veal sauce.
Fourth Course – Coconut-crusted, poached pineapple, mango sauce, Malibu gelato.

Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)

IC. NV Smith Woodhouse Fine White Port (PM): Deep tawny, yellow on edge. Nose subdued, perhaps showing a little oxidation. Palate medium-sweet, rich and long, searing, trace bitter. Unusual, and a perfect IC wine. Not ranked;

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Meeting No: 42

Date: September 17th, 2009.

Theme: Aloxe Corton, Ladoix and Pernand Vergellesses, Premier or Grand Cru, Red and White.

Present: Sir Ian of Palatte, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Leon of Romanee, Sir Steven of Grammar, Sir Russell of Epicure, Sir Peter of Heathcote, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Thomas of Stocks, Sir Colin of Chambers, Sir Paul of Rousseau.

Food:

First Course – Brendon McQueen’s sweet corn soup with Asian mushrooms, winter melon and snow-pea shoots.
Second Course – ‘Karage’, crisp fried lemon and garlic marinated Jurassic quail, yellow beans in shitake mushroom sauce.
Third Course – Barbecued wagyu beef, pan-fried rice noodles with celeriac and leek fondue, asparagus spears in oyster sauce.
Fourth Course – Vanilla crème caramel, honey-roasted quince, almond shortbread biscuit.

Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)

NV Gosset Grande Reserve Brut Champagne (CL): Medium-yellow. Fine, rich yeasty nose, some said spicy, touch of marmalade. Palate a good mouthful, good acidity, perhaps a little short. Not ranked;

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Meeting No: 41

Date: August 20th, 2009.

Theme: Vosne Romanee, Grand Cru; Chablis, Grand Cru.

Present: Sir Phillip of Travelle; Sir David of Cirro, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Leon of Romanee, Sir Russell of Epicure, Sir Peter of Heathcote, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Colin of Chambers, Sir Phillip of Oporto; Sir Peter of Malay; Sir Paul of Rousseau, Sir Philip of Politico.

Food:

First Course – Steamed spanner crab raviolo, stir-fried gingered wombok, crab bisque cream sauce.
Second Course – Chinese roasted Western Plains suckling pig, shitake mushrooms and snake beans with oyster sauce.
Third Course – Seared Japanese citrus peppered venison loin, pan-fried rice noodle filled with eggplant and smoky baba ghanoush, soya bean salad.
Fourth Course – Granny Smith apple ‘cinnamon doughnut’, rhubarb sorbet.

Marvelous food again, the first three courses I thought sensational. Many applauded the match of the crab ravioli with the Chablis, and some said the venison was the best they had ever eaten. Bravo Brendon!

Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)

NV Leclerc Briant Les Clos de Champions Premier Cru Brut Champagne (CL): Some colour. Nose rich, trace meaty, sweetish. Palate very rich, good mouthful, quite dry belying the nose, good aftertaste. A wine for food a couple of us thought, but others saw it as an aperitif. Not ranked;

1. 1998 Chablis Valmur (Brocard) (CL): Some colour. Nose fine, showing some typical White Burgundy development. Palate rich and structured with good acidity and aftertaste. Good wine, drinking well. Ranked 9th (86). High – 2nd (LC); Low – 13th (RC);

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Meeting No: 40

Date: July 16th, 2009.

Theme: Nuits St. Georges, Premier Cru; Meursault, Premier Cru.

Present: Sir Ian of Palatte, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Leon of Romanee, Sir Russell of Epicure, Sir Stephen of Grammar, Sir Peter of Heathcote, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Thomas of Stocks, Sir Colin of Chambers, Sir Paul of Rousseau, Sir Philip of Politico.

Food:

First Course – Veloute of Langoustine & Le Puy lentils, pan-fried scampi tails.
Second Course – Toasted brioche mushroom ‘Charlotte’, wilted water spinach, truffle poached quail egg, shitake mushroom sauce.
Third Course – Slow-braised, herb-crusted lamb neck, celeriac puree, caramelised onions and carrots, lamb sauce with parsley pesto.
Fourth Course – Warm crepe roulade with ricotta & pistachio nougat, toasted hazelnut ice cream.

Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)

NV Fourny Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne (PhS): Light yellow, green tinge. Fine, fresh nose. Palate a good mouthful, rich and dry. Very good aperitif. Not ranked;
1994 Yarra Yering Sparkling Blanc de Noir (RG): IC wine. Deepish yellow. Broad, fruity nose. Palate rich and broad, fairly short. Interesting curio but lacks finesse and elegance. Not ranked;
1. 2001 Meursault Santenots (d’Angerville) (CL): Deep yellow. Corked on nose but palate rich and long. Ranked 13th (141). High 12th (CL, SC); Low – 13th (everyone else);

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Meeting No: 39

Date: June 18th, 2009.

Theme: Open: Premier or Grand Cru, red and white.

Present: Sir David of Cirro, Sir Ian of Palatte, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Leon of Romanee, Sir Peter of Heathcote, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Thomas of Stocks, Sir Phillip of Oporto, Sir Ian of Umpirico, Sir Paul of Rousseau, Sir Philip of Politico.

Food:

First Course – Tempura garfish rolled in nori, gingered wombak cabbage, horseradish cream sauce.
Second Course – Baked Asian pie of minced chicken, pork belly and eggplant.
Third Course – Seared lamb loin with citrus pepper, crisp lamb sweetbread, grilled lambs tongue, braised cos lettuce, pan-fried noodles, shitake sauce.
Fourth Course – Warm, dark chocolate fondant pudding with red bean ice cream.

Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)

1975 Bollinger RD Champagne (PS): Very coloured, orange. Nose showing maderisation. Palate still with some fizz, a bit short, a little sweet and sourish. An elegant geriatric. Some, notably Sir Leon, appreciate such aged Champagne; the rest of us would rather drink beer. Not ranked;
NV Billecart Salmon Rose Champagne (RG): Onion skin colour. Nose quite fresh, rich. Palate rich, meaty, attractive. Good mouthful, dry, a little sour on the finish. Not ranked;

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Meeting No: 38

Date: May 21st, 2009.

Theme: Morey St. Denis, Grand Crus; Chablis, Grand Crus.

Present: Sir Philip of Travelle; Sir Ian of Palatte, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Leon of Romanee, Sir Russell of Epicure, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Thomas of Stocks, Sir Colin of Chambers, Sir Phillip of Oporto, Sir Paul of Rousseau.

Food:

First Course – Seared sea scallops, braised leek tortellone, ginger, crustacean sauce.
Second Course – Five-spiced, Chinese-style, roast duck breast. Peking cabbage and bamboo shoot ‘okonomiyaki’, BBQ sauce.
Third Course – Seared wagyu beef, horseradish mash, carmelised onions, black bean sauce.
Fourth Course – Gippsland Blue cheese, toasted fruit and nut loaf, fig marmalade and roasted walnuts.
Fifth Course – Honey-roasted quinces on almond shortbread biscuit, hazelnut ice cream.

Excellent food again, the wagyu beef sensational!

Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)

NV Yalumba Old Show Oloroso (museum release, 25 years old) (SC): Designated ‘idiosyncratic contribution’ (IC). Brown, yellow-green edge. Rich, spiritous, penetrating, sherry nose. Palate very rich, good weight, long, with very long aftertaste, lasting. Finishes dry. Excellent. Not ranked;
NV Fourny Extra Brut Champagne (RG): Pale yellow. Nose fine, fresh and delicate. Palate fresh and very dry, good acidity, medium length. An austere wine of great finesse, very attractive. Not ranked;

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Meeting No: 37

Date: April 16th, 2009.

Theme: Chambolle Musigny Red, Premier or Grand Cru; Corton White, Grand Cru.

Present: Sir David of Kardinia, Sir Ian of Palatte, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Leon of Romanee, Sir Steven of Grammar, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Thomas of Stocks, Sir Colin of Chambers, Sir Paul of Rousseau,

Food:

First Course – Pan-fried Petuna ocean trout semi-cured and wrapped in seaweed, rice-crusted tofu, kombu dashi sauce, spicy cod roe.
Second Course – Crisp-skin roasted Kurobuta pork belly, teriyaki grilled eggplant, shredded iceberg salad, hoisin sauce.
Third Course – Seared venison ‘involtini’ rolled with leeks, miso and Japanese mustard, celeriac shepherd’s pie with braised venison shoulder, pickled plum sauce.
Fourth Course – Butter puff pastry tartlet with glazed quinces, gorgonzola and mascarpone custard, honey sauce.

Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)

NV Marc Hebrart Premier Cru Brut Rose Champagne (CL): Pale, onion-skin colour (‘bronze blush’ according to Sir Ralph). Fine, aromatic nose, bready. Palate full, rich and succulent, good aftertaste, delicious. Not ranked;
NV Boulard Les Rachais Champagne (RG): Pale yellow. Nose with a medicinal overtone, possibly Brettanomyces. Palate a good mouthful but with an ‘off’ flavour. Not ranked;

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Meeting No: 36

Date: March 19th, 2009.

Theme: 2000 and 2004, Cote de Nuits Reds, Cote de Beaune Whites, Premier or Grand Cru.

Present: Sir David of Kardinia, Sir David of Cirro, Sir Ian of Palatte, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Thomas of Stocks, Sir Colin of Chambers, Sir Philip of Oporto, Sir Ian of Umpirica, Sir Paul of Rousseau, Sir Philip of Politico.

Food:

First Course – Seared sea scallops, braised leek tortellone, sweet and sour ‘XO’ dried scallop and shrimp sauce.
Second Course – Red roasted chicken filled with sweet corn and bacon, Peking cabbage and bamboo shoot ‘okonomiyaki’, BBQ sauce.
Third Course – Slow-braised beef cheek, pan-fried rice noodle ravioli with smoky baba ganoush, soya bean salad, Sichuan pepper sauce.
Fourth Course – Honey-glazed figs with caramel ice cream and hot fudge sauce.

Marvelous food, rich and original.

Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)

NV Fourny and Fils Premier Cru Blanc de Blanc Champagne (SC): Pale yellow, good bead. Fine, light, elegant nose. Palate austere and elegant, fine, good mouthful, good aftertaste. Good aperitif, would benefit from a little time. Not ranked.
1. 2004 Meursault Charmes (Matrot) (SC): Light gold. Nose fine, fresh, very minerally. Palate rich, good structure and acidity, long aftertaste. Very good wine but very immature, almost painful, and needs time. Ranked 5th (59). High – 1st (PM, IB); Low – 10th (DB);

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Meeting No: 35

Date: February 19th, 2009.

Theme: 1994 and 1996, Cote de Nuits Reds, Cote de Beaune Whites, Premier or Grand Cru.

Present: Sir Philip of Travelle, Sir Ian of Palatte, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Leon of Romanee, Sir Steven of Grammar, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Philip of Oporto, Sir Paul of Rousseau, Sir Philip of Politico.

Food:

First Course – Teriyaki-glazed, baby squid stuffed with sea eel, rice-crusted tofu, pickled plum and bonito mayonnaise.
Second Course – Twice-cooked quail ballotine with duck mince (master-stock braised, then deep fried), mixed grain rice, cucumber and ginger salad.
Third Course – Seared venison stirploin involtini, glazed taro and spring onion dumpling, mushroom sauce, garlic shoots.
Fourth Course – Roasted peach between honey-glazed, filo pastry, peach liqueur custard.

Wonderful food again. We are constantly amazed at its originality and diversity. For me, the second course was sensational.

Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)

NV Gosset Brut Champagne (IB): Pale yellow, fine bead. Light, yeasty nose, trace of meatiness. Palate uplifting, refreshing, touch sweet, lovely drinking.
1996 Lanson Brut Champagne (RG): Some colour. Nose fine but muted, most said slightly corked. Palate quite good, if slightly flattened. I could happily drink this but must were put off by the corked character.

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Meeting No: 34

Date: January 15th, 2009.

Theme: Ready-to-drink Premier Crus from the Cote d’Or, red or white.

Present: Sir David of Kardinia, Sir Ian of Palatte, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Leon of Romanee, Sir Russell of Epicure, Sir Peter of Heathcote, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Colin of Chambers, Sir Thomas of Stocks, Sir Murray of Rouge et Blanc, Sir Paul of Rousseau, Sir Philip of Politico.

Food:

First Course – Miso baked black cod fillet, daikon linguini tossed with pickled bean shoots, ginger cream sauce.
Second Course – Char sui Kurobuta pork fillet, steamed scallop wontons, braised lotus root, Chinese BBQ sauce.
Third Course – Seared Wagyu beef rump, pan-fried sweet potato and wasabi croquette, teriyaki glazed Asian mushrooms.
Fourth Course – Silvan Estate Monbulk strawberries and raspberries between almond shortcake biscuits with framboise mascarpone with macerated berries.

Brendon’s inventiveness and originality with his meticulously prepared food goes from strength to strength; every course was marvelous. I think that because of our preoccupation with the wines we can’t give enough attention to the food. Fortunately, because of its quality it speaks for itself. Bravo Brendon, yet again.

Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)

1996 Gosset Brabant Cuvee Gabriel Brut Champagne (CL): Like the eponymous archangel, this was, if not heavenly, worthy of modest genuflection. Pale yellow. Matured nose, now rich and quite meaty. Fine mousse, good balance and fine acidity, long with good aftertaste. Drinking well. Not ranked;
1995 Henriot Cuvee Enchanteleurs Brut Champagne (MM): A successful aspirant, rather exceeding Gabriel in the mouth-filling stakes. Younger colour. Nose fresh but also a little meaty. Rich full, fresh palate, lovely drinking. I rated a little higher than the Grosset. Not ranked;

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