Terres et Vins de Champagne - April 20 2009
Posted on 30/05 10:25
In Castel Jeanson in Ay, Aurelien Laherte, Raphael Bereche and other young vignerons, staged an awesome display of where the new Champagne Vigneron is taking the 'new Champagne revival'.
Aurelien Laherte.
Raphael Bereche.
Aurelien Laherte.
Raphael Bereche.
Article in Australian Photography Magazine - April 2009
Posted on 07/04 18:36
After my photography exhibition last year at New North Gallery - I was contacted by the editor of Australian Photography Magazine - for an article for the April 2009 issue. It is a very accurate 6 page article by Robert Keeley with 8 of my images reviewed.
Wine Record No. 3, 6/March/2009
Posted on 06/03 10:03
Lunch at Ocha, 26/2/09.
Attending: David Andrew, Phill Meyer, Russell Collins, Ralph Gray, Paul Staindl, Sam Chafe.
1. NV Alfred Gratien Brut Champagne (PM): Light yellow, fine mousse. Fresh nose. Palate quite full, good weight and acidity, possibly a little short. Seemingly, could use a little time. Ranked 10th (51). High – 6th (PM); Low – 10th (RG);
2. NV Piper Heidseck Brut Champagne (SC): Light yellow. Fresh, young, ‘zingy’ nose. Palate with good fizz, a bit short but good aftertaste. Not bad, could use a little time, early drinking. Ranked 12th (67). Ranked 11th by all except DA who ranked it 12th;
3. 2007 Staindl Riesling (PS): Light yellow. Nose more Chardonnay than Riesling, despite Paul’s protestations. Palate young and austere, good acidity, needs time. If it develops like the ’04, we will have a top-quality facsimile of White Burgundy. Ranked 11th (56). High – 4th (RC); Low – 12th (PS, PM);
4. 2005 Dopff Riesling Grand Cru Schoenenbourg (RG): Pale yellow. Nose fine and citrusy. Palate rich with citrus flavours, very good aftertaste. Properly needs time, should mature well. Ranked 7th (41). High – 3rd (RC); Low – 9th (PM);
5. 1995 Hugel Riesling (PM): Some colour, medium-gold. Nose matured, showing a little maderisation. Palate rich and soft, good acidity and aftertaste, mature. Ranked 9th (46). High – 3rd (RG); Low – 12th (SC);
Attending: David Andrew, Phill Meyer, Russell Collins, Ralph Gray, Paul Staindl, Sam Chafe.
1. NV Alfred Gratien Brut Champagne (PM): Light yellow, fine mousse. Fresh nose. Palate quite full, good weight and acidity, possibly a little short. Seemingly, could use a little time. Ranked 10th (51). High – 6th (PM); Low – 10th (RG);
2. NV Piper Heidseck Brut Champagne (SC): Light yellow. Fresh, young, ‘zingy’ nose. Palate with good fizz, a bit short but good aftertaste. Not bad, could use a little time, early drinking. Ranked 12th (67). Ranked 11th by all except DA who ranked it 12th;
3. 2007 Staindl Riesling (PS): Light yellow. Nose more Chardonnay than Riesling, despite Paul’s protestations. Palate young and austere, good acidity, needs time. If it develops like the ’04, we will have a top-quality facsimile of White Burgundy. Ranked 11th (56). High – 4th (RC); Low – 12th (PS, PM);
4. 2005 Dopff Riesling Grand Cru Schoenenbourg (RG): Pale yellow. Nose fine and citrusy. Palate rich with citrus flavours, very good aftertaste. Properly needs time, should mature well. Ranked 7th (41). High – 3rd (RC); Low – 9th (PM);
5. 1995 Hugel Riesling (PM): Some colour, medium-gold. Nose matured, showing a little maderisation. Palate rich and soft, good acidity and aftertaste, mature. Ranked 9th (46). High – 3rd (RG); Low – 12th (SC);
Knights of Burgundy, 35th Dinner, February 19th 2009
Posted on 25/02 09:10
Meeting No: 35
Date: February 19th, 2009.
Theme: 1994 and 1996, Cote de Nuits Reds, Cote de Beaune Whites, Premier or Grand Cru.
Present: Sir Philip of Travelle, Sir Ian of Palatte, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Leon of Romanee, Sir Steven of Grammar, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Philip of Oporto, Sir Paul of Rousseau, Sir Philip of Politico.
Food:
First Course – Teriyaki-glazed, baby squid stuffed with sea eel, rice-crusted tofu, pickled plum and bonito mayonnaise.
Second Course – Twice-cooked quail ballotine with duck mince (master-stock braised, then deep fried), mixed grain rice, cucumber and ginger salad.
Third Course – Seared venison stirploin involtini, glazed taro and spring onion dumpling, mushroom sauce, garlic shoots.
Fourth Course – Roasted peach between honey-glazed, filo pastry, peach liqueur custard.
Wonderful food again. We are constantly amazed at its originality and diversity. For me, the second course was sensational.
Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)
NV Gosset Brut Champagne (IB): Pale yellow, fine bead. Light, yeasty nose, trace of meatiness. Palate uplifting, refreshing, touch sweet, lovely drinking.
1996 Lanson Brut Champagne (RG): Some colour. Nose fine but muted, most said slightly corked. Palate quite good, if slightly flattened. I could happily drink this but must were put off by the corked character.
Date: February 19th, 2009.
Theme: 1994 and 1996, Cote de Nuits Reds, Cote de Beaune Whites, Premier or Grand Cru.
Present: Sir Philip of Travelle, Sir Ian of Palatte, Sir Samuel of Pontifico, Sir Leon of Romanee, Sir Steven of Grammar, Sir Ralph of Plenty, Sir Philip of Oporto, Sir Paul of Rousseau, Sir Philip of Politico.
Food:
First Course – Teriyaki-glazed, baby squid stuffed with sea eel, rice-crusted tofu, pickled plum and bonito mayonnaise.
Second Course – Twice-cooked quail ballotine with duck mince (master-stock braised, then deep fried), mixed grain rice, cucumber and ginger salad.
Third Course – Seared venison stirploin involtini, glazed taro and spring onion dumpling, mushroom sauce, garlic shoots.
Fourth Course – Roasted peach between honey-glazed, filo pastry, peach liqueur custard.
Wonderful food again. We are constantly amazed at its originality and diversity. For me, the second course was sensational.
Wines:
(In addition to the group ranking, I give the highest and lowest ranking the wine achieved, together with those who ranked it as such; you get some idea of how much we can differ in our appreciation. I also give the total ranking points after the overall ranking)
NV Gosset Brut Champagne (IB): Pale yellow, fine bead. Light, yeasty nose, trace of meatiness. Palate uplifting, refreshing, touch sweet, lovely drinking.
1996 Lanson Brut Champagne (RG): Some colour. Nose fine but muted, most said slightly corked. Palate quite good, if slightly flattened. I could happily drink this but must were put off by the corked character.
Wine Record No. 2
Posted on 25/02 09:06
IAN ROBINSON
Fizz:
1999 Gosset – Yeasty, bready. Starting to show development but still good acid.
A bracket of 2004 Vincent Girardin Premier Cru whites from Puligny-Montrachet (with rankings):
2004 Puligny-Montrachet “Le Cailleret” – Fat, ripe, toasty, forward, “thick”. (5)
2004 Puligny-Montrachet “Les Folatières” – Similar to Cailleret, but touch more acid. (4)
2004 Puligny-Montrachet “Les Combettes” – Clean, flower petals on the nose, some minerality. (3)
2004 Puligny-Montrachet “Le Champ Gain” – Lightest colour of these. Palate a little dull with slight taint on the finish. (6)
2004 Puligny-Montrachet “Les Pucelles” – Light oak on the nose. Lovely nutty flavour with long clean finish. Excellent acid structure. (1)
2004 Puligny-Montrachet “Les Referts” _ Similar to the Pucelles, but a touch richer and less structure. (2)
Other whites:
2005 Chevalier-Montrachet (Philippe Colin) – Big, old-fashioned, almost rustic. Quite alcoholic.
2006 Puligny-Montrachet “Les Perrières” (Etienne Sauzet) – Beautiful wine. White flowers on the nose, fine mouth-filling flavours of pear and melon, very long finish.
2006 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet (Louis Carillon) – Rounder peach flavours compared to the Perrieres, but also very fine, very long.
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Fizz:
1999 Gosset – Yeasty, bready. Starting to show development but still good acid.
A bracket of 2004 Vincent Girardin Premier Cru whites from Puligny-Montrachet (with rankings):
2004 Puligny-Montrachet “Le Cailleret” – Fat, ripe, toasty, forward, “thick”. (5)
2004 Puligny-Montrachet “Les Folatières” – Similar to Cailleret, but touch more acid. (4)
2004 Puligny-Montrachet “Les Combettes” – Clean, flower petals on the nose, some minerality. (3)
2004 Puligny-Montrachet “Le Champ Gain” – Lightest colour of these. Palate a little dull with slight taint on the finish. (6)
2004 Puligny-Montrachet “Les Pucelles” – Light oak on the nose. Lovely nutty flavour with long clean finish. Excellent acid structure. (1)
2004 Puligny-Montrachet “Les Referts” _ Similar to the Pucelles, but a touch richer and less structure. (2)
Other whites:
2005 Chevalier-Montrachet (Philippe Colin) – Big, old-fashioned, almost rustic. Quite alcoholic.
2006 Puligny-Montrachet “Les Perrières” (Etienne Sauzet) – Beautiful wine. White flowers on the nose, fine mouth-filling flavours of pear and melon, very long finish.
2006 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet (Louis Carillon) – Rounder peach flavours compared to the Perrieres, but also very fine, very long.
